Tech information furnished by
From: "Scott Leslie" email@example.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 22:42:29 -0500
Subject: [LCML] Notes on Power Steering GearBox
This weekend I rebuilt the P/S Gear Box on my '86 FJ60. As always, I was
completely in awe of how well everything is designed and built. Here are my
Seal Kit, available from Toyota & Spector, I paid 108$ locally. Comes with
assortment of rubber o-rings, teflon wear rings, and two dust seals. Parts
guys know me now at the local Toyota dealer, will special order with no
pre-payment; they know I'm one of the few, the proud, the poor.
Local parts store had a genuine Pitman Arm puller for $11 rental, looks
identical to the one in the Toyota manual. Someone recently posted about
having a three jaw puller come apart under load at close range, this tool
did the trick with no heating required. After tightening the puller good and
hard, I fit a long piece of 3/4" iron rod down through the engine
compartment and wacked on the Pitman Arm from above until it let loose.
Pitman Arm nut will fit a 1 1/4" box wrench. Some scrap 1X3 steel channel
will provide extra torque on the wrench. Also, the handle on a Hi-Lift makes
for an excellent extension for extra leverage on a beefy breaker bar.
We all have our vices and in this case a vice of some sort is a neccesity.
The gear box is just too bulky and heavy to work on without one. Be careful
when tapping the cross shaft out of the housing, mine got stuck midway and
it sounded and felt like it was trapped against the needle bearings. I
tapped it back in place, then started again and it came right out. Avoid
dismantling in someone's borrowed wood shop if possible. Power steering
fluid and saw dust are mutually attracted to each other. I was amazed at how
completely the cross shaft dust seal had failed. Sand and grit was
frightfully close to the moving parts inside, which also explains why it was
leaking like a sieve to begin with.
Replacment of the seals is very straightforward, just follow the directions
in the manual
The manual warns NOT to dismantle the power piston. Getting all those steel
balls to work just so is a real PITA! But at least I now know for sure what
the term "recirculating balls" means. I finally coated each one with a
little grease and stacked them carefully inside the 'nut', then threaded the
worm screw in carefully. Educational but something I would avoid if
The manual calls for at least five different SSTs. Some of these are used to
set preload. The SST required to remove the worm screw cover looked
impossible to duplicate until I tried a pipe wrench, there is just enough
thickness in the cover to get a grip. Forget about adjusting the pre-load as
indicated in the manual, all of the adjustments are set "in stone". Hate to
admit it but I adjusted the pre-loads by feel while tightening the worm
screw cover (used large channel locks for this)
Make sure the Pitman Arm is TIGHT, just think of that thing coming off at
highway speed, then tighten it some more! Same goes for the tie rod, be sure
that the nut is secured before driving any distance.
Steering is more responsive, there may be slightly less wander, hopefully
the drivers side undercarriage will no longer be coated in oily slime.
Manual calls for plain old ATF for fluid, not power steering fluid. This
took me the better part of the weekend working on and off between other
activities. This was definitely less expensive than replacing the entire
gearbox. Hope this helps.