Adjusting 80-series Land Cruiser Throttle Cable
is applicable to an FZJ80 with 1FZFE engine and A442F transmission. I don't
know if it will work with the later (1995 - 1997) transmission or not. Also,
I'm not a master mechanic; this worked for me so I hope it will work for
others. I can't take credit for this fix; this came from the factory service
Basically, the shift points are wrong, so you may experience symptoms similar
- You're slowly accelerating and it's still in first gear and you let
up on the pedal. It then shifts quite abruptly and harshly into second. May
sometimes do the same between 2nd and 3rd.
- You're slowly decelerating and it shifts down to second gear. The traffic
picks up or the light changes to green, so you slowly accelerate again. Rather
than staying in second gear or making a smooth transition
first and back to second, it drops to first, holds that gear for longer than
it should, then lurches into second gear. May do the same between 2nd and
(Photo courtesy of Dante Luna)
- E and L are the cruise control cable
- C and J are the accelerator cable (connected to the pedal)
- A and H are the throttle cable (connected to the transmission)
I lubed both the cc cable and the accelerator cable. Whether or not it helps
the problem, I don't know, but it's nice to get things well lubed, especially
if you're in a humid location that may promote corrosion. You can remove these
two cables by hand by flipping the throttle open and unlatching the cable.
Then drip a few drops of lubricant in there until you can slide the cable freely.
I used graphite liquid, which isn't really
liquid graphite, but rather colloidal graphite in a liquid suspension. The
suspension is supposed to evaporate, but that may take a while inside a cable
housing. I had trouble finding this item, but if you're in the US, Napa carries
it, under their own brand, for about $4. It's usually used for locks, so a
locksmith would probably carry it if you're not near a Napa.
I didn't lube the throttle cable, because I couldn't see an easy way to remove
it. It looked like it was connected to something
that goes "sproing" upon release, and I didn't want to do that.
Throttle Cable Adjustment
factory service manual, the end of the cable housing (H, redish color in the
photo) needs to be 1 mm from the end of the stopper. In adjusting mine that
far, there was too much slack in
the cable, so mine is actually slightly more than 1 mm, but still works fine.
To adjust, loosen nut B with 14 mm wrench, then working by hand, adjust B
and G until you get the proper spacing. Retighten by hand, then with the wrench,
and you should be done. Go give it a test.
Unless you're very tall, the worst part about this job is reaching all the
way across the engine bay to get to the parts. A support board laying across
the fenders is a good idea.