Windshield/Glass Installation

Tech article stolen from the LCML...various contributors.

Summary of previous posts on Window Installation - Hope this helps you! Mark S.

Windshield Install -
I just had a new windshield installed in my 77 FJ40. The old one was pitted really badly. The new one installed was like $85 from a local shop. They put the rubber gasket on the glass and ran small rope around the groove of the rubber gasket. They then set the window in from the outside and when it was pushed in tight, they pulled the rope out from the inside which pulls the inside part of the gasket out and around the window frame. Looked pretty simple. They soaped the rubber gasket a bit to help it slip in place.

* Windshield install - First spray the windshield gasket with tireblack, its silicone, put the windshield gasket on the frame first, then set the windshield into the gasket at the bottom from the outside. Start at the bottom corner and work the gasket around the edge of the windshield all the way around. A Tupperware citrus peeler works great for this and will not scratch. You can put a heavy string inside the gasket and pull it out, this will bring the gasket over the edge of the glass, but if you don't have help it's hard to support the glass with your hands and pull the string at the same time. Also if the string should break you must take the windshield back out to remove the string inside. If not it will leak. Then using the citrus peeler to pry open the edge of the gasket at the glass squirt windshield glue down inside all the way around. I know this sounds harder than putting the glue on before install, but if you have ever had this glue all over your hands, truck body, windshield and everything else, you know why I do it this way. All that is left is to slide the insert gasket into its slot. You can also spray it to make it easier to install. As I said I have done three windshields with no problems and no leaks. But, the best advice is, if you are not comfortable with this pay those other guys to do it. Remember any time you are working with glass, BE CAREFUL. Henry Cox

Window Removal -The weather-stripping is in one piece. Don't start from the middle, start from a corner so you can push the corner out (it's more flexible than the side). DO work from the inside of the glass, DO put a rug down there in case it pops out easier than expected and falls, using a couple of putty knives (but not too sharp or you could cut the weather-stripping). (you need a narrow one to start) you slide the knife between the body metal and the rubber and lever upwards. The rubber is shaped in cross-section like an 'H', with one 'leg' of the H on each side of the window or body metal. If you lever the leg up it will push through until it will stay more or less bent up, then you continue on. Kind of like pulling a bicycle tire off the rim; once you get going it gets easy, but the first part is a pain. The Haynes manual for the 'cruiser has a reasonable paragraph on installing/removing windows.

*Once you get going it's easy. With proper tools and a little advice, you can remove and reinstall it with little problem. The wire advice is good, in the glass business we use 1/4 nylon rope lubed with linseed oil (dish soap works too). When removing and installing you need a "hook tool" we call it in mechanics lingo it known as a cotter pin tool. Don't worry about breaking the glass, tempered is one of the toughest products on the market, the most common cause for breakage is if it gets bumped or hit on an edge, that's when it explodes otherwise you can almost bend it in half. Mike Graham

Start with the cords ends bottom center, work toward corners one side at a time, have someone gently push down on the glass as it falls into the bottom channel. Work your way around the corners slowing. Don't push too hard against the "Plane" of the glass. Best to be patient! Charley Rupp

Posted September 13, 2000

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