Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 21:42:41
From: "Dana Adams" firstname.lastname@example.org
Subject: manifold rebuilding procedure
Remove and disassemble the manifolds. Buy all new gaskets, as well as the
diverter plate inside. It almost always breaks. If you live in a temperate
climate, it's a good idea to weld the heat riser valve in the "open"
position permanently, i.e. the position that
deflects the gas downward, away from the intake manifold.
Check the intake plenum surface carefully for cracks, very common. Can be
welded by a good welder.
Assemble manifolds together with all new gaskets, use anti-seize on the
bolts. Loosly fit, do not tighten the five bolts. Fit the assy to the head (no gasket), and snug it up to the head, but not
too tight. Then, tighten up the five bolts that hold the two manifolds
Remove the assembly, take it to a good machinist, and have the assembly
Install on the head (good idea to use a gasket this time), and torque.
Drive for 100-300 miles, and re-torque. I use Toyota or Fel-Pro only for
this application. Also Fel-Pro makes a superior head gasket for 2F and 3F
motors. Doesn't require re-torque (really).
A good idea to run a straight-edge along the side of the head surface to
check for warpage also, as they do tend to warp there.
If the head surface is warped, and not fixed, then the above procedure will