IH8MUD Inc.

Manifold Rebuild Procedure

Tech information furnished by Dana Adams



Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 21:42:41
From: "Dana Adams" fj40dana@hotmail.com
Subject: manifold rebuilding procedure

Remove and disassemble the manifolds. Buy all new gaskets, as well as the diverter plate inside. It almost always breaks. If you live in a temperate climate, it's a good idea to weld the heat riser valve in the "open" position permanently, i.e. the position that deflects the gas downward, away from the intake manifold.

Check the intake plenum surface carefully for cracks, very common. Can be welded by a good welder.

Assemble manifolds together with all new gaskets, use anti-seize on the bolts. Loosly fit, do not tighten the five bolts. Fit the assy to the head (no gasket), and snug it up to the head, but not too tight. Then, tighten up the five bolts that hold the two manifolds together.

Remove the assembly, take it to a good machinist, and have the assembly re-surfaced.

Install on the head (good idea to use a gasket this time), and torque.

Drive for 100-300 miles, and re-torque. I use Toyota or Fel-Pro only for this application. Also Fel-Pro makes a superior head gasket for 2F and 3F motors. Doesn't require re-torque (really).

A good idea to run a straight-edge along the side of the head surface to check for warpage also, as they do tend to warp there.

If the head surface is warped, and not fixed, then the above procedure will not last.



Posted March 15, 2001





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