Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

Tech information furnished by Dan Friedlander

Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 14:16:40 -0500
From: "Dan Friedlander" Dan.Friedlander@noaa.gov
Subject: Oil Pan

Remove the flywheel/clutch bottom plate (with gasket pieces) and set it aside. The old oil pan gasket is probably hard and may have been sealed on. Plan to _cautiously_ use some sort of thin but strong blade to gradually remove the gasket in small sections. I used a thin, strong putty knife with the edge beveled. By removing most of the bolts, I was able to tap it between the gasket and the block. It came off super easy after a while.

Installation: Get a good quality cork gasket from Toyota. They are meant to be installed _dry_. (They will expand from the hot oil after use.) The repair manual suggests liquid sealer at the four corners. Get good stuff. I suggest the liquid gasket Toyota sells (it is actually used alone for newer cars). It's called FIPG. Fixed in place gasket. It dries to a vulcanized appearance.

Make sure the mating surfaces and bolt holes are flat, clean, and undamaged. I used laquer thinner to really clean the block and pan. Neat trick: use Felpro SnapUps. It's a plastic peg included with some Fel-Pro oil pan gasket kits to help hold up the gasket and the pan while you spin in the remaining bolts. Once the bolts are in, unscrew the SnapUps and replace the rest of the bolts.

They are available separately. For the 2F engine, you need the 8mm size, part number ES 72865 (future number 21-4120). I would suggest getting 2 packs, as they come 4 in a pack. Four for the corners, and four for along the rails.

I would also suggest running a tap through the threads to clean the way for the snap ups, 'cause if the threads are dirty, it's kinda hard to remove them (been there).

Install the SnapUps, apply the liquid sealer to the corners of the pan right on the junction of the saddle and flats per instructions on the tube/box and the Service manual. (You'll see why when you fit the gasket). I also ran a light bead on the pan on the saddles, the curved area. Be extra careful that the saddles are properly in place as the pan is being torqued. The rear saddle likes to pooch out as you tighten if there is too much sealant. Clean the block saddle groove completely to give the gasket something to grip with to stay in the groove.

Install the pan slowly and carefully using a couple of extra long bolts temporarily to make getting the oil pan on easier, being careful to align the gasket properly. Stripes on gasket go towards the front of engine.

Once the pan and the gasket are in place and being held loosely by at least a couple of bolts on each side (don't let the pan's mating surface bend), gradually remove the SnapUps from each hole and insert the correct bolt. I'd suggest letting the FIPG set up for about 15-20 minutes to skin, then complete torquing.

Replace the long bolts with the proper short ones. Torque the bolts only to 84 in/lbs! (Not very much at all. Don't overtighten!). Start torquing at the middle of the pan and work your way out towar the ends of the pan. Similar to torquing a head. You may want to retorque it a second time. Mine leaked until I torqued it the proper technique.

Replace clutch cover.

Good luck, Dan

Dan Friedlander Rockville, MD TLCA # 5355
'77 FJ40
'85 ExtraCab Mini

Posted November 21, 2000

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